Using Forester Springs/Struts/Shocks to lift 1st Gen Outbacks

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давление у человека как его понизить при похмелье
The basic principle behind Impreza lifting is that as it turns out, Late 90's Legacy Outback & Forester struts are aprox. 2" longer between the spring perch and hub mount, providing an instant 2" ride-height lift. These struts ALSO allow for taller tires by providing more clearance between the hub and spring perch.
Basically, to run tall tires you need a strut from a Legacy Outback or a Forester. This will give added lift and throw off geometry so driveline spacers are advised but not always necessary
Strut Top Mounts:
Rear top hats are an issue for 93-01 Imprezas (02-07 Imprezas match up with 03-08 Foresters) 95-99 Legacy and 98-02 Forester share the same rear tophats too
What I've gathered is that Legacy Outback struts are the tallest and that Forester springs are the tallest, I've yet to see all the parts side by side so this is just from other members. I wish Zap would chime in...
Stock is 205/55-16 for the short struts of Impreza and Legacy and 205/70-15 for taller Outback or Forester struts. A good site to play with sizes is
Trailing Arm Brackets:
Front control arm mounts are the samw on Legacy Outback and Forester, they do the same thing but for the front and correct your caster, I would say these are a must and a good upgrade for low cars too as there is never too much caster
Rear Swaybar - 97-99 Outbacks and Forester have rear swaybar brackets that sit about 2" lower than stock Impreza brackets, which in turn lowers the swaybar to correct for added lift. Forester brackets are the same as Legacy Outback
The Legacy Outback bar itself is also larger, 18mm vs 15 or 16mm on most models including Forester
Front Swaybar:
The front swaybar is enclosed by the subframe, so there is no easy way of lowering the swaybar. HOWEVER, longer endlinks will also solve the problem. I recommend running Kartboy STI rear endlinks on the front, since they are longer than stock front endlinks (contact Kartboy for more information, if you have a stock non-sti front control arms, the endlinks may require a different bushing). Note: Longer front endlinks are not necessary when front subframe spacers are used and longer rear endlinks are not necessary with the taller brackets
Other "required" parts:
Rear Camber bolts - These are important because without them, you can't properly align the rear suspension when lifted. ??? No problems here, I'm running 0 camber instead of -5 though
Body Lift, IE body spacers: (possibly required depending on the amount of lift you are doing)
Outbacks and Foresters over the years have used spacers between their subframes and chassis in order to lower the drivetrain to correct for CV angles. From what I've noticed the Forester doesn't have any removeable lift spacers in the rear but the front subframe has the same spacers as Outback. The Forester has flat brackets for the rear differential carrier too, basically it looks like just the front subframe and the transmission crossmember are spaced and the rear is the same as Legacy and Impreza
There are several items required: Front subframe spacers, Rear subframe spacers, Rear differential support spacers and brackets and bolts, corresponding transmission cross members (MT or AT depending on your application), pitch rod, transverse link bushings, and longer steering joint. The steering joint on Forester is all sorts of funky, definately not the same as the Legacy Outback. This is pretty much all or nothing, one thing leads to another which interferes with another and you need ALL the parts for it to work properly. The center axle bushing is also taller on the Legacy Outback but it's much easier to just space that down with longer bolts, enough to move comfortably is all I did.
Optional parts:
Exhaust sheild spacer bolts - from the Legacy Outback keep the sheild from contacting the center axle and making horrible noise that scares the crap out of you when you got all the body lift parts from the junkyard after going back 3 times only to find that these 4 little bolts were the cause of your frustration. Forester has none but the shield is shorter and bent differently
Exhaust hangers - When you do the body lift, not all the hangers will work. Your exhaust can either hang lower using longer mounts for the end of the muffler and the mid-pipe or you can bring it back up close to the body by eliminating the mount at the front of the muffler. Clearances are tight with the body lift so I actually think the muffler pipes are bent differently. Forester uses a longer rubber mount for the mid pipe and brackets for the rear end of the muffler, it still sits close to the bumper though so either the Forester and Outback bumpers are cut lower or the pipe is bent differently on Forester and Outback mufflers
Speedometer sensor - I'm not sure how to solve this one, I'm going to try and just swap sensors with the Forester and the GT and see if it works. I think since hers runs faster and mine runs slower...